Raising Ducks: Pinioning

Ducks are generally a flying bird. This makes them harder to keep around. To avoid this from happening you should pinion your ducks. Pinioning is the act of clipping the pinion joint, which enables any bird to fly. Pinioning is regularly done to poultry and waterfowls, and should be administered to duck breeds that have lighter bodies, which allows them to escape because they are more capable of flight.

Removing the pinion joint is similar when you remove a person’s hand by cutting through the wrist. This eliminates the primary plumage, preventing the velocity and acceleration needed to take flight. This can be done by a veterinarian or an experienced duck breeder.

Most breeders use a sharp pair of scissors designed for docking. They hold a wing, extend it, and locate the joint on the end of the wing. There are two pieces of wing part that are attached at the pinion joint. One part is very small and the other is more noticeable. The larger piece should be cut-off at the joint, leaving the smaller piece whole. Cauterization is also done so that all bleeding of cuts will be stopped and the ducks can heal faster and easier.

Pinioning is typically only administered to duck breeds that can fly; otherwise they would escape the coop or fly above the fence yard. It is recommended to perform pinioning before they are a few days old. When done with older ducks, the pinioning is more stressful to them and the cut tends to bleed needing further cauterization.

Most raisers don’t perform pinioning. Instead of cutting the joints, they clip the feathers instead, although this solution only lasts until the fathers are replaced again during the molting season; these flight feathers are grown by most domesticated ducks at least once a year.

Lasting duck pens, made to prevent escape eliminates the need for pinioning, but this will entail more costs in your part.

Ducks, who can’t fly, doesn’t need pinioning, so before you bother yourself and your poultry, check whether the breed you are raising is indeed able to fly.

The elimination of a body part of livestock is an issue of animal rights activities. The quality of life for the ducks is often used to justify this. In some situations, if the ducks are not confined, pinioning can increase the quality of life. Ducks that are allowed to roam around the yard or a pond have a higher quality of life, because of freedom of motion, natural habitat and increased mental and physical development as compared to penning.

Clipping is an alternative to pinioning, but it is not always reliable. The molting season can happen earlier or later than the expected date. A partially molted duck can summon the required acceleration and be able to take flight, which does not increase their life preservation in the wild since they are not adapted to survival in the open. They cannot fully fly and avoid possible predators.

Remember, pinioning should be performed by a veterinarian or an experience breeder. Amateurs can harm the ducks and even prove to be fatal if the cut is infected. Ducklings have a lower survival rate when they are injured.

Raising Ducks: Breeding

With about 22 million ducks being produced in the US every year, more and more small farm operations are now adding to the whole duck industry. Aside from being a pleasurable experience in your yard as pets, ducks can give a source of high-quality meat for the market as a source of income.

Before you prepare the duck pen or purchase the ducks, you should do some research. Study the different breeds of ducks available and find the breed that suits your purpose. Some breeds are good for meat such as the Peking, some are for laying eggs such as the Khaki Campbell and some are for ornamental purposes such as the Muscovy.

Before your purchase or acquire the ducks, you should build the duck pen first. A small duck shade will give heat for the ducks on winter and cold nights. A used chicken coop or a small pen will be sufficient.

If you can afford it, you can give your duck a pond. Whether it is located in your yard, or just using a small kiddie pool, the pond or any swimming area will give your ducks the opportunity to glide through the water, which will provide them the opportunity to develop their physical and mental features. However, you should not allow your ducklings to swim just yet. During the early age, they cannot survive in the cold water and they might get pneumonia, which can be fatal for ducklings.

You should order eggs or baby ducks from a reputable breeder. It will be the basis of your new flock of ducks and the brood they develop in the future.

You should establish your breeding flock. Each group will consist of one drake and several females. It is best to divide the ducks during the fall so they can become acquainted with each other before the mating season in spring.

Prepare the eggs for incubation. You should make sure to mark the laying date on each egg to keep track of the time you will need to incubate. Then, wash any waste smudges off the shells to keep the incubator free from bacteria that are infesting the droppings.

Place the eggs inside a room with a temperature of 95 degrees Fahrenheit and with moisture at 60 per cent air humidity. Maintain the humidity of the incubator and turn the eggs at least two to three times a day and start incubating them before they are a week old.

Right after they hatch, transfer the baby ducks to a warm brooder pen as soon as they are dry. As they mature, you can slowly lessen the temperature. By the time they are about four weeks old, they will not need any artificial heat.

You can cover the floor of the brooder with old newspapers and change them constantly to maintain the cleanliness of the box. Remove any leftover or spilled water or feeds to avoid fungal inspection in your flock. Ducks are very vulnerable to fungal infection and some diseases can be fatal as a result of the infection.

Raising Black East Indies Ducks

The Black East Indies is a decorative breed of domestic ducks. In spite of the breed’s name, it was never developed or breed in the East Indies (now Southeast Asia). It was first bred in the United States in the early 19th century. Some raisers started to call it the East Indies and this particular breed is distinguished by its attractive appearance: jet black color, iridescent green feather coverings and dark bills.

The females can sometimes grow white tinge feathers as they mature. A bantam breed weighing around 2 lbs, Black East Indies are widely raised by hobbyists for exhibition purposes. Being small, they are known as good fliers. This breed was formally recognized by the American Poultry Association’s Standard of Perfection in 1875. The Black East Indies duck is very popular among raisers, and the breed has a docile temperament, they are basically more passive and obedient than Call ducks.

This breed has been known as the Black East Indies as early as 1865, but has been widely raised with different names such as Buenos Aires Duck, Black Brazilian and Labrador.

The Black East Indies Ducks is a very remarkable duck breed and is very easy to differentiate from other breeds due to their plumage that is basically dark green. They have short black bills and their legs are either grey or black. Some female of this breed can have a white feather covering in the tail region, males can weigh about 5-7 lbs and the females can weigh about 4-5 lbs. As ducklings, they have a distinct black plumage, and gradually changes to green sheens as they mature.

This breed is very domineering and strong. They do not like to remain dormant for too long because they are very active. The striking feature about the Black East Indies Ducks is that their eggs are primarily heavy gray, but then changes to a brighter shade before they are hatched.

Most East Indies ducks are kept as pairs or trios, based on the drakes’ level of energy. They can lay at least 100 eggs every year, and will not sit and brood their eggs if they are touched by humans. As they are very good fliers, they tend to fly and escape the coop so you can clip their wings or pinion them. However, before pinioning, you should consult a veterinarian as they should be administered when only necessary.

Like the Cayuga breed’s solid plumage, the runners in the females will usually fade and white feathers appear as they age. However, they can still produce offspring. A white plumage in the Black East Indies Drakes can appear in the chest as they mature.

Like most duck breeds, the Black East Indies breed is very easy to keep. Most raisers keep this breed for domestic and ornamental purposes. They can also be raised in the suburbs because they are handy, but you should pinion them if you don’t want them to escape. If you have a baby pool, you can use it for their swimming area. Most hobbyists raise the breed because they provide relaxation when they glide effortlessly through a pond or any water surface.

Raising Ducks: Mating Systems

Like most animals, ducks when pairing bonds with members of the opposite sex for survival of their species, this is an innate instinct in all animals, including the human beings. The kind of pairing formed, however, are not what one would think. Duck mating systems vary. Some breeds pair for life, while others pair with a single duck, every year or a season, a behavior that at first thought would seem too tiring and time consuming. Only around 44 percent of duck breeds- form long-term, monogamous bonds. That is, the drakes of the remaining breeds must form new bonds every year by courting a new female.

Monogamy, or partnering for life, is very common for some ducks, but this kind of monogamy only happens during every year or a single season. They are monogamous in that particular mating season, and in the next, the drakes will try to find other ducks to mate. This mating behavior is also called seasonal bonds, or seasonal monogamy wherein new bonds are formed each season. This kind of monogamy happens in about 55 per cent of all duck breeds. In this mating system, partnerships basically form on the wintering areas in their first year, and those bonds are maintained only through egg laying and duck rearing.

Each winter, the drake must find a new duck and maintain a new bond for that particular mating season. Drakes that form seasonal bonds will not participate in rearing the ducklings, but will safeguard the territory around the females during spring, females will instantly find a new drake for that season, and nesting will not be blocked in that year. Seasonal monogamy is very typical for dabbling ducks, diving ducks and sea ducks.

A remarkable twist on seasonal monogamy happens in some tunnel nesters and farm ducks that do not form bonds until their second year. Some researches have proven that some duck couples reunite every year on winter and return to their previous breeding territory. This mating system happened only in breeds that shows strong fascination to both wintering and breeding grounds. Philopatry refers to the behavior which animals return to the exact location, either on the breeding or wintering ground, from the past year, enabling couples to find one another. Re-coupling is also thought to occur in Harlequin and Eider ducks.

The other mating system observed in ducks is polygamy, wherein multiple mating partners can happen. Polygamy is rare among ducks and observed only in 8 percent of breeds, including the Muscovy, Comb, and Maccoa, all of these are stiff-tailed ducks. In this mating system, mating bonds are weak or not formed at all, but instead drakes defend the mating grounds along the shores and engage in complicated courtship to attract the females in the mating grounds. Ducks visit these territories, and the drakes will mate with different ducks.

In North America, the Peking is the only duck to exhibit polygamy, and they are widely used in meat production, and for their eggs.

Raising Ducks As Poultry

Around 20 million ducks are raised every year in the United States. Most of them are raised within the confinement of particular farms for ducks in some commercially vital duck production regions. However, most farms still keep a few flocks for domestic use or community sale. For the sake of this discussion, we will focus on the domestic keeping of ducks in a smaller scale.

Basically, ducks are raised for their meat and eggs. Even though most types are quite poor layers, the flock should be supervised to save the eggs raised for hatching. Most commercial farms raise Peking ducks because they grow fast and are quite good layers. However, Peking ducks are poor settlers and rarely grow a brood or a flock.

Another breed, the Rouen duck is a common farm duck. It grows slower compared to the Peking, but it can attain same growth over a 6 month period of feeding under certain conditions. Its gradual growth and colored plumage make it desirable for marketing production.

Muscovy breed, a variety far related to other breeds, is also raised in some farms. They are great foragers and good for brooding. Male Muscovy is bigger than females in their growth peak.

Meat production is basically important when you select a duck breed. However, egg production for procreation or brooding, and the white plumage that yields a pleasantly dressed duck should be put into consideration.

Raising small, ornate breeds of ducks, sometimes known as bantam ducks, for display or domestic functions is now gaining popularity. The varieties raised as pets include the Black Indie, Wood Ducks, Mandarin and Teal. Many pet shows are featuring duck exhibition for enthusiasts.

Manageable flock of baby ducks may be brooded by chicken hens and most types of ducks other than the Peking and the Runner. If the baby ducks aren’t hatched by the mother duck, place them under a mother hen, so that it can be acquainted with the eggs.

If you have some means, you can brood baby ducks artificially similarly as you brood chicks. Since ducks grow faster, they need heat for just a short period of time, and the space needs are minimal.

You can use a small room or a corner of a barn for brooding if you only have a small number of ducks. You should make sure that the brooding area is dry, well lit and ventilated, and free from strong winds. You can cover the floor with thick paper or cloth as litter material. You can also use smooth wood flakes or shavings. Efficient litter supervision includes the taking away of wastes such as wet smudges, and constant addition of dry litter. Make sure that the litter is mold-free.

Heat lamps are a great source of warmth for brooding at least a dozen ducks. You can use a 100-watt lamp for a dozen ducklings. Heat lamps can provide enough warmth. Since the air is not heated, the room temperature is insignificant.

When you raise hover-type brooders, use only at least half as many baby ducks as the recommended chick capacity. Since baby ducks are bigger than chicks, it is important to elevate the hover to 4 inches.

Raising Baby Ducks

Whether you have freshly hatched ducks just out from their egg shells, or you have day-old ducks from a farm or a shop, raising and keeping them can be quite a very challenging task, and that’s because they always need special attention and care. Nonetheless, with persistence, it should be fairly easy for you to keep and raise your baby ducklings until they are mature ducks.

The first thing you need to do is to find a warm and comfortable resting place for your baby ducks. When they are newly hatched, ducks are totally wet. Typically, it takes at least 3 hours for them to naturally dry, and before you can take them to a farm incubator, they need to be completely dry. Also, you should take note that a sudden removal of the baby ducks from the incubator can shock their young system.

A surrounding with room temperature is a significant change as compared to the comfort of the incubator that is around 85 – 90 degrees. Thus, if your baby ducks were hatched during spring, it is wise to have an incubator or a warm place where you can keep them temporarily. A small room, small enough to keep the needed temperature would be great.

A small box would be a safe place to keep your baby ducks. At first, you should keep them in a small place. To do this, you can use a sturdy cardboard box, with thick paper or cloths in the bottom. I would suggest putting a plastic sheet on the bottom too if you use a cardboard box to avoid the box from getting wet, when the baby ducks begin playing with water. You can use a small lamp, and place it near the box so that it can provide the needed warmth. Avoid using lamps that are brighter than 40 watts to avoid extra temperature.

At first, the baby ducks will huddle together because it is their natural instinct. They have the tendency to do this behavior during their early days in the incubator. Also, they will spend most of their days sleeping. If the baby ducks are hatched during summer, when the weather is hot, they tend to be more active.

In feeding baby ducks, you should give them starter pellets since they are well formulated to have all the needed nutrients that their young body requires. You can place their food in a small container such as a bowl. You should expect them to be unruly when eating; they commonly play with their food and splash water around.

Baby ducks need to have enough source of water. Like any pet, they need water to survive. However, they are not yet ready for swimming. Primarily, you should place a small container of water in their box. Avoid using large water containers since they can get drowned while playing.

After a few weeks, the baby ducks are ready to move out from the box. If the weather is fine, that means it’s warm; they can play outside, and start enjoying your yard. However, you should keep them initially in a small area of your yard because they are too young, and they are a potential meal for predators such as cats.

Raising Ducks: The Mallard Breed

The Mallard breed, probably the most-popular and most familiar of all duck breeds, is an ornamental duck that breeds all over the sub-tropics and temperate regions of North America, Asia, Europe, New Zealand and Africa. It is also presently the most common duck breed in New Zealand. It is scattered in these areas because they are migratory birds. They usually go north during the breeding season and farther south during winter. For instance, in North America, it migrates to Mexico during the winter season, but regularly drifts into the Central region and the Caribbean Islands during spring.

The Mallard is known to be related to other duck breeds, except to the Muscovy which is not related to any kind of ducks.

This breed has a wingspan of 80-100 cm, and can weigh almost 1.5 kg during its growth peak. The breeding male is distinctive, with a green tinge on the head, black side ends and the bill is yellow or orange with black tips, as compared to the dark brown bill of Mallard females. The female is light brown, like most female ornamental ducks. However, both sexes has vivid violet speculum, tipped with white, which is distinctive during flight. During the non-breading season, the drake (male duck) changes into a dull color, looking more like the female duck, but still recognizable by its yellow bill and scarlet chest. Male ducks have a nasal quack, while the sound from the female is more vivid and louder.

In confinement, domestic Mallards appear in a wild kind looking feathers, in white, and other shades. Many of these color varieties are also commonly known in farm-raised mallards not raised as poultry, but kept as household pets, or aviary purposes, where they are deemed unusual but is gaining in popularity.

The Mallard likes to stray in wetlands such as parks, ponds and streams, and typically feeds by picking plant foods or grazing the ground. They commonly brood on river banks, but not very close to the rim. It is a very sociable animal when they are not breeding and will form in large a flock that is called a sord.

Mallard breeds seek a partner until the female lays eggs at the time when she is left alone by the drake. The usual egg clutch is 9-12 eggs that are incubated by the female for almost a month with 1 ½ month of fledgling. The baby ducks can swim and feed by themselves as soon as they hatch, although they still need their mother for safety.

When they find a mating partner, often some drakes will end up alone. This flock will somehow target a single female duck – courting her until she gives up, at the point each drake will take his turn in copulating with her.

Keeping Mallard ducks is recommended for ornamental purposes, since they can provide a relaxing experience for people who own a small pond. They are not so popular for meat and egg production, since there are other breeds such as the Peking and the Black East Indie that are more productive than this breed.

Raising Ducks As Pets

Early planning is important in keeping happy and healthy ducks as pets. If you want to handle your ducks well, you need to purchase them as hatchlings so that you can have more time in getting a good grasp on how to raise ducks as pets, plus, they will grow a special bond with you.

Before you acquire the ducklings, make sure that you are well-equipped to do the task of raising and keeping the ducks by considering the following factors:

Adequate Space – Ducks are sociable animals, it is advisable to keep at least three ducks to foster physical and mental growth. You will need at least a minimum space of 10 ft. per mature duck. You should also consider your yard space, since they need to roam around in the open, to play, scavenge for grass and weeds and to breathe fresh air. If you have a small pond, it will be an added fun since they are well-equipped to swim through it.

Safety – you should make sure that your pet ducks will be free from physical dangers and predators. The shelter should be away from intense heat, rainfall, snow, and predators such as foxes, stray dogs, cats, owls, eagles, hawks and other wild animals. Confining them in a safe place at night is necessary

Resources – When you want to raise ducks as a pet, you need to devote money and time, especially if they are still ducklings and still needs some nurturing. You should provide them with food, adequate space for feeding and drinking, medicines when they are sick, and vaccines.

In housing your pet ducks, you should keep them inside for the first three to four weeks. If the weather is warm, they can then move in the open when they are two to three weeks old.

Providing your ducks with an adequate source of water can help them in their proper well-being.

Ducklings can be brooded without a mother hen as long as you provide proper incubation. A light bulb placed in a corner of the pen works best. Place the lamp in a certain area of the pen so the ducklings can escape the heat if the pen gets too warm. If you find the ducklings huddled under the lamp, it means that they feel cold. If they are crowded away from the lamp, the pen is too warm.

A used play pen is enough for housing the ducks. You might need to place the sides with screenings and wires to keep them from escaping. You can also use a plastic kiddie pool. Line it with absorbent litter such as wood shavings or saw dust and suspend a heat lamp over a corner. You can also use a dog or cat litter scoop to pick up their wastes every day.

Make sure that the floor is not wet to avoid any slipping. They should always have some kind of shelter that will keep them safe from the sun, rainfall, snow or hale if kept outside the home. A cheap lean-to can be built by placing a piece of plywood up on two wood blocks or logs.

The Difference Between Male and Female Ducks

Basically, to determine the sex of your ducks, check their feather colors. Whether you grow or own ducks for pets, or for meat and egg production, you should be well-oriented that there are different varieties and breeds that come with distinct colors. One of the most common types is the mallard duck. Like any other breeds, you can determine the sex by observing their color appearance. Males have a vivid color and their heads are green. They also have a white ring around their necks. On the other hand, females have varieties of speckled brown. This is true for most breeds of ducks, with the males being more vivid in appearance than the female.

You should try to determine the sex of your ducks when they are fully mature since they have different colors when they are ducklings.

Aside from the color, the size of the duck can also help you in determining the sex of ducks. Some types of ducks are very similar in size, whether they are male and female, but in some breeds, it can be a great solution in determining sex. In common breeds such as the Mallard, the males (strictly, the drake) are larger than the female ducks. If you have this breed or something of a hybrid, looking at the shape can establish their gender.

When the ducks are about 2 months old, there’s a great solution in determining the sex. Look at their tails. In their bottoms, there will be a prominent single feather that typically coils down in a very significant curl. This is known as the sex feather that is placed on all drakes (male ducks). This feather is present even after molting. Thus, the weather or the season will not put off the determination of their sex.

Another way of telling their sex is to listen to their voices. Most sex of different types of ducks can be determined based on the intensity (volume) and pitch of their quacks. The Call and the East Indie ducks are well known for their voice ranges. The females have a very loud and distinctive quack that can easily surpass the quacks of the drakes. Drakes of this breed have a softer and harsher quack. It can even be mistaken to be a sound of a rooster. The variation in their quacks can be determined if the ducks are about a month old. This is one of the earliest known methods of determining the sex of a duck without using a vent.

Venting is a process of accurately distinguishing the sex of ducks that are only done by farmers and experts. This process is very difficult so they should not be performed by amateurs. To do this, you have to hold the ducks upside down and expose their genital vent. Female ducks will have cone-like genitals.

On the other hand, drakes have an extended or elongated organ. It takes a trained touch and eye to perform venting, and even trained farmers can be confused sometimes.

Two Respiratory Diseases Common to Ducks

There are different common diseases that affect the respiratory system of ducks. However, with modern systems of management, and the proper observation of the signs and symptoms, one can easily avoid the spread of these diseases.

FOWL POX

Ducks of all ages and breed are susceptible to duck pox. There are two forms of duck pox. The dry form is distinguished by raised, wart-like bruises on the skin devoid of feathers. The bruises commonly heal in about two weeks. If the bruises are removed before total rejuvenation, the surface beneath would be rare and bleeding. Retarded growth is the usual symptoms of duck pox. In duck hens, infection results in a temporary waning of egg production.

The other form is the wet form. In this type, blight-like lesions near the bill can be observed. This can cause a respiratory distress by blocking the upper air pathways. A duck may be affected with either form at the same time.

Fowl pox can be transmitted through direct contact between infected and vulnerable birds or by carriers such as mosquitoes. Virus-carrying lesions also can be transmitted from infected birds and serve as a source of contamination. The virus can invade the bloodstream through the body openings such as eyes, ears and skin wounds, or respiratory passages.

There are some evidences that the mosquito remains infective over time. These insects are the primary carriers of the fowl pox on the ducks. Several species of mosquitoes can transmit fowl pox. Often mosquitoes winter-over in duck pens, and widespread contamination can happen during the cold season and early spring.

There is no known treatment for fowl pox. However, it is quite slow-infecting. Hence, it is possible to administer vaccination to stop a wide contamination. The wing-web vaccination treatment is normally administered and the thigh-stick technique is used for ducks older than 2 months.

Fowl pox in ducks confined in pens can be prevented by using a mosquito repellant spray. However, if the disease is endemic, that is common, in the area, a vaccination is suggested. Never vaccinate unless the disease is a wide problem in a large farm or in the area.

NEWCASTLE DISEASE

The Newcastle disease is also known as pneumoencephalitis. The viscerotropic type is a highly contagious and fatal form of this disease. This disease can affect all ages of ducks. Humans and other mammals are also vulnerable to this disease, but in form of mild conjunctivitis.

Basically, there are three forms of this disease: lentogenic, mesogenic, and velogenic. This disease is  distinguished by an immediate onset of symptoms that includes hoarse quaking, mucus discharge from the nose, difficulty in breathing, inflammation if the face, immobility, trembling and involuntary twisting of the neck (as a sign of invasion in the central nervous system, where motion impulses are sent from the brain and vice versa). Fatal incidences vary from 10 to 80 percent based on the severity of infection.

In mature duck layers, signs and symptoms can include lower food and water consumption and a significant reduction of egg laying. This disease can be transmitted by direct contact or by airborne ways.

Raising Ducks: Frequently Asked Questions

Why raise ducks?

Basically, ducks are raised for commercial purposes. There are around 1 million duck farmers presently around the United States, and they are the main source for supply in the US market for duck meat. Ducks are also raised for their eggs, but they are not on a large-scale since ducks are not good layers as compared to chickens. Campbell ducks are copious layers but they are small so you can’t get enough meat from a single duck.

Domestic duck keeping is gaining popularity as well. Most people find it relaxing when they watch a flock of ducks swimming through a small pond in their garden. Ornamental ducks, also called bantam ducks, are raised as pets. However, they are still edible.

Can you raise duck if you don’t have a farm?

Of course you can. If you have a spacious room or a place that is dry, well-ventilated and free from predators, you can start raising ducks for family or domestic purposes. If you want to raise baby ducks as pets, you can get a shoebox – the size depends on the number of ducks you have. Some people in suburban areas now have pet ducks.

Do I need a pond to keep ducks?

No, you don’t need a pond. Your ducks will grow healthy even if they don’t swim in a pond. However, they will be happier when they can swim. You can use a plastic pool for their artificial pond. Many have found these to be very relaxing and a great addition to their yards.

How many eggs does a mother hen lay?

During their first year, layer ducks can lay at least one egg a day. After the succeeding seasons, the rate of egg-laying gradually decreases. If you raise ducks in a suburban home, you can’t keep all of the eggs. If you decide to let them hatch, their number will increase to an unmanageable rate. Better, you can give them to your neighbors or your friend who also want to raise ducks from egg to adults.

Do hens need a drake (male duck) to lay eggs?

No, unless you are raising a duck farm. A drake is only needed to fertilize the eggs, but – just as with any other kind of poultry animals – the hens will lay eggs whether or not there is a drake.

Are duck eggs like chicken eggs?

They are similar, but they are not exactly alike of course. The size of duck eggs vary according to their breeds. Some eggs have the same size, while some are smaller. When you cook duck eggs, they are a bit creamier than chicken eggs and have a richer flavor.

Can I raise ducks with my usual pets such as dogs and cats?

Naturally, cats and dogs are predators. So, they will chase, even eat, your pet ducks. However, if your cats or dogs are trained, they will learn not to harm the ducks if you tell them not to do so.

Raising Ducklings

Hatching ducklings from fertilized eggs, is a rewarding way to begin your own duck-keeping experience. When growing baby ducks, you can pick different ways of beginning your own flock, but, you also have the option to start a flock with mature ones. Suburban duck hobbyists can purchase mature ducks, adolescent ducks, ducklings or fertile duck eggs to begin keeping ducks. But to some, the experience is more fulfilling if they start with the brood from eggs first.

Hatching Duck Eggs and Brooding Hatched Ducks

To hatch your own fertile eggs, you will need an incubator. An egg incubator is essential for hatching duck eggs. But, you should remember that you cannot provide enough space for duck eggs in the egg incubator as you would with chicken eggs, because most of the duck eggs are larger than chicken eggs.

Most duck eggs take at least 28 days to hatch. This is about seven days longer than hatching chicken eggs. But, some eggs of various breeds can take longer. For instance, Muscovy ducks can take almost 1 month and 5 days to hatch.

Heat the egg incubator to 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit. You should check the level of moisture in the incubator first before placing the eggs. At the least, it should have 55 per cent moisture or humidity for the ducks to properly develop and hatch.

How you decide to brood your newly-hatched ducklings is up to you, but you should be cautious as it is the most essential step in keeping ducklings. Most people would brood ducklings using a chicken hen. A few backyard duck hobbyists choose a chick brooder to raise their ducklings. These two brooding options have their distinct advantages and disadvantages.

If you will use a chick brooder to provide warmth to your ducklings, ducklings need a shorter period of time than chicks. Also, you don’t need a specialized set-up to brood your ducklings. You can use a cardboard box or a wood box. It is essential to have at least three to four inches of fillers that are dry and comfortable for the ducklings. You can use wood shavings or paper scraps as litter.

To provide sufficient supply of warmth and heat in the duck brooder, you can use a heater or a 250-watt light bulb. This set-up must be enough to brood up to 2 dozens of ducklings. You can also use a hover brooder, normally used for raising chickens. You should remember this, because ducklings are larger in size than chicks, a brooder set-up can only give space enough for around half of the space capacity for chicks.

Your newly-hatched ducklings require at least 6 sq. inches of brooder space and it should be raised to 10 to 12 sq. inc. of space as they grow bigger. You should adjust this setup depending to the growth rate of the ducks.

Baby ducks should be brood for about six to seven weeks after they are hatched. The period of time required in a brooder is shorter during summer.

How to Keep Ducks In Your Home

Perhaps the idea of keeping ducks in your suburban home is nearly impossible and would be quite a predicament. But, contrary to popular belief, this is very possible and can be very entertaining especially when you have kids. Your neighbors (and even your wife or husband) may find it a bit different, but soon enough they too will find it enjoying. Keeping duck is easy, if you have the patience. It is fun and can give you and your family an exciting and fresh activity to do together.

The first thing that you have to do is to acquire baby ducks. Basically, you have two choices, you can purchase from farms or you can search for an online store. The good thing about purchasing baby ducks from the internet is you will be guaranteed of their quality and get the kind of duck you want to raise. The disadvantage of online purchasing is you need to purchase a minimum number and you have to pay delivery charges. Three ducks is manageable, but the higher the number, the higher the mess they will produce. Ducks are naturally messy animals since they kind of play with their meals. It is suggested to convince a neighbor or a friend to raise ducks also and split the order.

Finding baby ducks locally is not an easy task. They can’t just be purchased at your local pet store. They are seasonal pets. You should find a farm or specialized pet stores in your area that market ducks for domestic purposes. Normally, most types of ducks are hatched during spring. For their food, a local feed store is the best place where you can buy food pellets and proper materials for feeding and raising baby ducks.

When you have purchased your baby ducks, place them in a high-fenced plastic container with paper or cloth sheets in the bottom. Place this container near a source of light that can run about 40 – 80 watts, suitable to keep the area warm. If you have a lamp, you can use it, but do not use lamps with bulb more than 40 watts, since too much warmth can be harmful. You can observe their behavior when they are not comfortable with the heat. If they keep away from the lamp and keep pushing their legs from under, they feel too much heat. If they huddle closely together very near the lamp, the heat is inadequate.

If they are ready for outdoor fun, allow them to roam around your yard, that is if you have one. However, you should keep them in at night to protect them from predators such as cats, raccoons and dogs. You should note that it will be difficult to raise ducks when your cat is not trained not to harm them.

Probably the most enjoyable experience with having pet ducks is swimming with them or at least watching them swimming your pool, even in an inflatable one. Duck have natural oil coating in their feathers that keeps them dry. You should take note that baby ducks acquire oil from their mother, so it is unwise to let them play in water when they are too young. They can get colds, or even get drowned.

Keeping Pekin Ducks

Pekin ducks, also known as Long Island ducks, is a duck breed of domesticated ducks used largely for meat production. They can also be raised for their eggs but they are often raised by farmers for meat because they are capable of growing in a short period of time. The Pekin duck was bred from the Mallard duck in Peking, China (hence the name). The ancestors of these ducks originated from the water vessels which linked water canals in Nanjing, and originally had petite bodies and a jet black plumage.

With the relocation of the Chinese Capital to Peking (now Beijing), the supply barge traffic increased going to the new capital that would often spill grain, crops and other feeds during the barge trips, providing a great source of feeds to the ducks. As a result of this, the ducks gradually increased in size and grew white feathers. In five dynasties in China, the evolved species of Mallard ducks had been raised by Chinese farmers.

In 1873, nine ducks were exported from Peking to Long Island, New York, thus it is also called Long Island ducks. It is the most widely known duck meat in the United States, even though some farmers had relocated to Indiana from New York. Today, about 90% of duck meat consumed in North America is the Pekin Duck.

Hatching

Pekin duck eggs take around 28 days to hatch at an incubator with an environment of 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit and 60 per cent moisture. A heartbeat can normally be observed in the third day of incubation during candling. The duck eggs should be regularly turned during incubation. This is to imitate the natural turning of duck hens, as she shifts the position of the eggs while sitting on it for hatching. For artificial incubation, there are machines that can turn the eggs instantly.

When incubated artificially, the eggs are transferred to a hatcher at least three days before they are expected to hatch. This has a slightly decreased temperature and the percentage of moisture is increased, to add the level of survivability for the newly-hatched ducklings while their protective egg sheaths develop.

Compared to other poultries, duck eggs are quite easy to hatch as they are very adaptable in variations in warmth and moisture.

Fully matured adult Pekin ducks can weight about 8 to 11 lbs in confinement. The average lifespan is about 9 to 12 years. Their outer feathers are white, sometimes with a tinge of yellow or orange. This is clearer with ducks that have been brooded inside pens and not exposed constantly to sunlight. The ducks have increased upright posture than dabbling ducks, and have overturned remains.

A mature Pekin will produce an average of 150-200 eggs every year. They will normally lay an egg every day. They will lay eggs in what they think is a safe place and sometimes, where another duck has already laid their own. Ducks can be tricked into laying eggs when desired by placing a lure such as a golf ball or alike objects in a place where you want them to lay their eggs.

Raising Ducks For Meat

Duck raising was just a small business venture in the past, but now it is slowly growing in significance in the poultry industry. With the rapid growth of demand for duck meat, the industry of duck farming has started to follow the same pattern of the chicken broiler industry. This could be seen in the establishment of more particular business ventures with modern poultry farmers, processing for greater packaging and presentation to consumers.

About 12 million duck meats are produced every year in the United States. Most of these are produced under intensive confinement in some commercially duck farms scattered in the country. Duck meat producers usually raise Peking, Muscovy, Cherry Valley and Jawa breeds because they grow in just a short period of time.

The ideal brooding technique for meat production is a mixture of pen heating and local heating.

Meat ducks do not need a very specialized housing as compared to chicken broilers. The pens are normally made of inexpensive materials such as wood and wires.

If you would build your own duck pen, its walls should at least be 20-25 inches from the ground and are made of concrete planks. The rest of the wall can be built using wires. In building the floor area, it is cement, earth or slatted wire that is needed. To provide fillers, you can use wood shavings, dry straws, husks or fine sands to cover the floor for a depth of about eight centimeters.

With the roofing, the design and shape is normally based on the direction of the wind, the sun rays and frequency of rainfall in the region. These factors aid to provide proper ventilation, moisture and dryness of the fillers, and the pen in general. The other important factor in building the housing pen is to make sure that the ducks are comfortable and well-provided with adequate space while they are inside. Inadequate space and overcrowding can result to malnourishment, fighting and the spread of diseases.

After brooding the duck broilers, the ducks can now be reared for their meat. Rearing habitats with proper ventilations, away from intense sun heat, heavy rain and predators are the proper place for your ducks. The floor should be kept dry at all times, not too crowded and can give enough space for feeding and drinking. The ideal space for rearing is 2.5 – 3 sq. feet per duck. Fences of 18 inches to 24 inches are designed so as to allow at least 350-450 ducks in each pen. This is done to ensure their proper maximized growth.

In about seven to eight weeks, meat ducks are ready for slaughtering, but to get the desired meat produce, considering their food and feeding is very essential.

The quality of the feeds is vital, particularly in the first three weeks of the ducks existence. It is crucial to sustainable growth and proper nutrition, and to fortify their bodies to avoid diseases. You can give them medicated-feeds, but you should consult first a breeder, as the type of feeds, protein mixture and medications depends on the duck breed, and the desired production.

Raising Crested Ducks

With powder-wisp of feathers planted on the head, the Crested Duck is certainly an eye-catcher. An average-weight duck breed, the Crested ducklings can grow fast, making them very prolific ducks for their meat, and they are also good egg layers.

A mature crested drake can weight about 6-7 lbs, and the mature Crested female can weight about 5-6 lbs. The American Poultry Association recognizes two Standard of Perfection for Crested ducks, the Black and White varieties. Other types such as the Grey, Blue and Buff have been a good interest for raisers, and crests can appear on other varieties as well. Crested ducks usually have a large body and should be symmetrical on the forehead when in idle position.

The crested feature of this breed is linked to the fatal situation during incubation. Duckling with both genes for the crest cannot hatch. Of these ducks that hatch, usually a third of them will not have the crest. It is very easy for a raiser to see how the crest will develop on the ducklings, so they can choose which stock to raise and sell the rest as baby ducks, instead of feeding them until they mature.

The crest is basically an abnormality appearing in any color. This is a result of the mutation linked with bone deformities and is has been known for centuries. There are those raisers who claimed that the deformation first appeared in Britain and that is a notion that has been a subject for debate, but it has been recorded in guide books and poultry manuals already as early as the 17th century. The mutations can appear occasionally on any breed of ducks. Careful breeding can increase the number of ducks with the same features.

The crest can appear from a lump of fatty tissues, which surface through a small hole in the skull. From this tissue, protruding feathers grow. The crest can differ from concentrated crests, plump crests, powder puffs, and contorted lumps with just a few plumages, or the rare ear lump when the hole glides near the ears.

The crested breed can be cross-bred with any duck breed excluding the Muscovy, as a parent Crested will produce only a small percentage of crested ducks. Most crested ducks rarely breed successfully but when they do, they are very good livestock. If you are using a crested female with a large crest, you should observe that the male duck will use the crest during the copulation, and the female can be injured during this. The clump of feathers on the head of the female, that rarely appears and is known as an object of attraction, when selected and bred for the offspring, will not carry the crested gene to the line, so a crested male will be needed to turn any breed crested, so watch them during mating.

As you have realized now, breeding crested ducks is a very challenging task and not for amateurs; also if the crest is very large and it hampers the eating and basically, living of the duck, you should trim it to give them a normal life.

How to Feed Adult Ducks

If you want to keep ducks as pets, you should invest in their proper nutrition. This is an investment that will pay off handsomely, not just in profits, but also with the fact that you will have very healthy pets.

Whether they are raised for livestock or for domestic purposes, ducks are great animals to have. However, they have special needs when it comes to proper nutrition. If you do not feed them with the right kinds of food, then they will not grow healthy. Duck malnutrition can cause several illnesses and can also be a fatal case. The wrong diet can cause your pet to discard more waste, making your cleaning a harder task. Before you throw some grains or birdseed to your flock, here is what you should know in getting the proper nutrition for adult or fully grown ducks.

Begin by preparing the feeding equipment, clean and sun-dry the surface of the feeder. If there are sharp edges, you can use duct tape to keep your pets away from any dangerous risks, and then hang the feeder in a safe place near the ducks’ habitat.

Pick commercial duck feeds that has the suitable amount of protein that is necessary for your duck’s health. If your ducks are laying eggs, you should feed them with duck pellets which contain 15-20% protein. On the other hand, if they are non-laying, you can choose a pellet feed with 13-17% protein content. You should take note that too much protein can cause a health condition among ducks called as angel wing which causes the wing feathers to bond together. Inadequate protein in the diet can also cause a multitude of serious health problems, especially if your ducks are laying eggs. Thus, you should consider the condition of your pets before you give feeds with the appropriate protein content.

Aside from protein feeds, you should also give your ducks some green diet composed of chopped vegetables. If your pets are constantly roaming around your farm, allow them to eat some weeds or grass in your field. When you feed your ducks, you should ensure that vegetables or greens are part of their daily food intake.

If your ducks need additional health supplement, you can give them minced hard boiled eggs, garden worms or corn. However, you should avoid giving your ducks whole corn kernels especially if they are still too young, since corns are hard to digest. Give your ducks enough cracked corns especially in the winter, when they need more carbohydrates and proteins. Cracked corn contains at least 50% of the protein they need.

Always give them water during their feeding time. They use water to help them swallow and digest the food. This is very important since lack of water can cause choking. Water is also needed for your pets to clean and groom their beaks and feathers.

Always keep their food fresh. If you think you need to change the food in their feeder because your pets are not eating them then do so, since duck feeds can easily spoil and turn the feeder into a healthy environment for harmful bacteria and microorganisms that can harm your ducks’ digestive system.

Raising Muscovy Ducks

More or less, duck farmers have stated that Muscovy ducks are very easy to raise and keep as compared to other breeds. They are good for domestic purposes, such as pets or for ornaments or for farm production for their eggs and meat. Muscovy ducks can exercise insect control in the yard, farm or ranch. However, this breed is not popular for domestication, but they are still capable of serving domestic purposes making them worthwhile and rewarding to raise them.

This breed, similar to the Mallard, does not form single mate partnership. They will mate either in water or in land, which is very unusual for ducks, that typically mate on the water only. Domesticated Muscovy ducks can mate up to three times every year.

The female Muscovy can lay a clutch of 9-17 white eggs, normally in a tree burrow or tunnel, which are incubated for 35 days, and is seven days longer than most eggs of the duck. The sitting duck hen will leave the nest once daily from 25 minutes to 1½ hours, and will then eliminate waste, drink water, eat and sometimes groom their feathers. Once the eggs start to hatch it may take a day for all the chicks to break through the egg shells. When wild ducklings are hatched, they normally stay with the mother duck for around 10-12 weeks. Their bodies cannot generate the heat they need, particularly in dry regions, so they will stay close to the mother duck particularly at night.

Normally, the drake will stay close with the brood for several weeks. The drake will walk with the ducklings during their regular migration in search for habitation, food, and protection.

During their first weeks, Muscovy ducks feed on grains, corn grits, weeds, insects and almost anything that moves. The mother duck will initially teach them on how to scavenge for food.

If you are keeping Muscovy duck, you should first keep them in a small confinement if they are below three weeks old, allowing them a provision for a heat source. They are still not capable enough of generating their own body heat during this early age. The baby ducks should not be allowed to swim, except in a shallow basin primarily used for drinking water. The main diet at this point should be composed of the recommended protein content according to the age of the duck.

Transfer the baby ducks into a larger pen at the age of three to six weeks. You can introduce swimming using a baby pool at this time as long as the bottom of the baby ducks is entirely plumaged. At this early age, baby ducks should be granted a certain period of time in a yard to learn how to hunt their own food. Also, they will scratch for grains that can be added to their normal diet.

You can house the Muscovy ducklings in the open when they are about 6 to 12 weeks. You should make sure that they are kept in a safe and enclosed pen to keep them away from predators. A small wire fence should be used, but not chicken wire. A wide access to a baby pool should be provided at this time. Ducklings should continue their food nutrition, including egg mixes, grains and green feeds as they grow stronger and more mature.

Raising Ducks For Eggs

A number of the many duck raisers in the US are making profit from duck raising ever since the increasing price of duck feeds and in general, production materials.

Until the 1970s, duck production for eggs was a very lucrative industry in the USA since most breeders have chosen duck eggs over chicken eggs because of its size. Duck eggs as we commonly know are larger than chicken eggs.

However, the rapid industrial growth which began in the 1980s gradually displaced the lucrative industry since most duck farms were sold to commercial and real-estate developers. Presently, only a handful of the country’s original egg farms and hatcheries still engage in the poultry business, many of whom had owed mortgages and loans from banks and financial firms. Also, pollution displaces the once natural and healthy environment for ducks. Some industrial factories near poultry farms eject chemical and toxic wastes, causing serious threat to the local duck poultry.

Presently, while the country still produces duck eggs, the center of duck rising has moved in some agricultural states such as Texas and California.

In the recent duck farming systems, where a farm may confine at least hundreds or thousands of ducks, the drakes (male) and the ducks are maintained at a ratio of about one drake with six to seven ducks. Light rhythms in mating sheds during spring and summer, with artificial lighting for 18 hours out of 24, blocking the duck’s natural copulating patterns. This is performed to stimulate and keep the egg production and fertility in breeder ducks. Therefore, mating is possible throughout the year. This artificial reproduction can lead to diseases of the reproductive organs

Some duck breeds, especially the Mallard (also known as the Campbell), is the best breed for egg production. A mallard duck can lay at least 230-240 eggs during their first 52 weeks.

Some duck farms in California producing eggs have developed a Hybrid called the Golden 300, by crossing and using the characteristics of various different duck breeds. These breeds can produce 290-300 eggs in their first 52 weeks.

The granting of motherly instinct is denied to today’s marketed breeding ducks. Experts suggest that those ducks which were reared by their own mothers have fostered a stronger bond. In the wild, the female mallard normally takes care for her ducklings for about 60 days. In commercial-meat oriented farms, the ducklings are slaughtered before this period ends.

Duck producers collect eggs every day, placing them in egg incubators for hatching. The breeding female meanwhile continues to lay eggs, which are then removed immediately. Through this genetic selection, a modern, breeding female is enervated to lay at least 290 eggs. It will never hatch or tend to take care of a single duckling.  In the wild, a female Mallard lays eggs at least twice, or sometimes three times every year.

The total egg production is a maximum of a 30 a year, all of which she will take care of. This significant increase in egg production from 30 to 290 has caused serious animal rights problems, because it carries complications in the female reproductive organ of duck hens.

Raising Cayuga Ducks

The Cayuga duck is one of the different kinds of domesticated ducks that are raised primarily for their eggs and meat. There are some raisers though that keeps Cayuga ducks for ornamental purposes. The name of this breed, Cayuga, is derived from Cayuga Lake, one of the Finger Lakes in New York. The Cayuga breed was first bred near this lake, hence the name. Some believe that the Cayuga ducks originated when a miller from Duchess, a county in New York captured caught two ducks there and decided to brood them. The meat of Cayuga ducks are very known for its strong flavor.

Cayuga ducks are medium-class breeds and have been a popular variety in the USA since the 17th century. The usual weight for mature males is about 9 lbs and females could weigh up to 8 lbs. The Cayuga ducks are distinguished by their black bill and feathers that are glistening green when flashed with light. During breeding, stress is placed on proper coloration, carriage and a large bosom. This breed has dark brown eyes, dark shaft and toes. However, mature Cayuga drakes can have an orange tone. The Cayuga ducklings start with black feathers. In most farm exhibitions for Cayuga ducks, a tint of white plumage is a ground for disqualification. This breed is very domestic as they have the tendency to be always near their coop.

Unlike the hoarse and load quacks of the Peking Duck, Cayuga ducks have a mild quack, and can only be heard very occasionally. This breed is best if you want to raise ducks in the suburbs since the neighbors won’t be disturbed by the constant quacking that some duck breeds do. Also, since the Cayuga is a very domesticated breed they are very obedient and most of the time docile.

Aside from grower feeds, feed your Cayuga ducks with hunting snails, worms and other small insects.

More often than not, the Cayuga duck will sit and brood their eggs much frequently than other duck breeds. Normally, the egg incubation lasts not more than a month. When you are using an incubator, set the temperature to not more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and ensure that it is properly moisturized for the whole period of incubation. You should also slightly lower the temperature to 98.5 degrees Fahrenheit and increase moisture to 94 per cent during the last two days of incubation.

The Cayuga is a very productive duck and can produce 120-150 eggs every year. At first, the eggs will appear black, but as they mature, the eggs become gray, and then slowly turn to white before they hatch. The meat of this duck breed is very flavorful, and in 1874, the Cayuga duck was formally recognized as a quality produce by the American Poultry Association’s Standard of Perfection.

As many have noted, the meat of the Cayuga breed is very palatable, but the body can be very hard to clean due to their black plumage. To resolve this “dark” problem, they skin the ducks instead of the traditional plucking.

Presently, the Cayuga breed is known as the hardiest of the farm ducks but can easily be domesticated if naturally raised. They can adapt to the winter season of the arctic regions, and can still produce offspring during that season.

Hatching Healthy Baby Ducks

If you have a small pond in your yard, it would be very enjoyable and relaxing if you have a small flock of ducklings swimming through its waters. For a good number of people, ducks are very beautiful pets. Watching them swim in a very serene way through the pond is very calming, and relaxing. Ducks are quite easy to raise, especially if you have the proper information on how to keep them.

Check and collect duck eggs frequently, assuming that you have laying ducks. If not, you can just buy fertilized duck eggs from some farms to begin with. Most duck raisers collect eggs every day when the matured duck hens begin laying. Ducks are not that good in prioritizing things and a layer will usually begin laying eggs before they can even build a suitable nest, leaving the eggs scattered on the ground. Collect these eggs wash them mildly and pat dry with a piece of clean cloth. Before the incubation, place the eggs in a box at room temperature. It is essential to shift their position at least twice a day, since mother ducks do egg turning naturally, even before she begins sitting on her eggs.

Prior to the incubation, preheat the incubator for at least a whole day. This is to make sure that it has the constant temperature of 90 – 100 degrees. You should constantly keep a room thermometer in the incubator and check it frequently. Moreover, provide the trough with enough water. This is very essential because the eggs require proper moisture to avoid dehydration.

Once the incubator is ready, place the eggs inside. When you have gathered a number of duck eggs, at least a dozen, you can now begin to incubate them. However, never store the eggs for more than a week before you put them into incubation. If you are thinking of adding some more eggs as they are laid, make sure that you put a mark on the eggs with the start date of their incubation. With this way, you will not be confused as to which will come first. You should remember that that eggs may appear alike, and you may not remember what is the exact date you put each egg in the incubator. Some raisers place a batch of eggs at a time, especially if they have a number of layers. However, if you begin with a dozen or so originally, it is okay to place another dozen in a few days.

Do not forget to turn the eggs. During incubation, keep on egg turning at least twice a day, dabbing them with water at each turn. You can also use a spray bottle for moistening the eggs. This will keep the fetus from fusing to the shells. Keep on turning the eggs until about three days before they hatch, and then discontinue the egg turning. Right now, the fetus has settled into their hatching speck.

After about 3 weeks, begin listening to the eggs during the egg turning. They are very active when they are near to hatching, and they tend to chirp. If you can hear their faint bird singing, it is a very good indicator of a healthy baby duck.

Raising Ducks: The Top Duck Breeds

The duck industry boasts of its 22 million unit production every year throughout North America. People are very enthusiastic in raising ducks because they are easier to raise than chickens, and can also provide more eggs and meat.

There are different breeds of ducks that you can choose from based on your needs. Each breed has its own special features. Some breeds are best for those who want to venture in the duck egg industry, while some breeds are great for those who are in meat production. And also, there are breeds for ornamental purposes.

For Egg production

One of the primary reasons that most people choose to keep ducks in their farms is for their eggs. Some particular duck breeds are much better for laying eggs than for their meats. The essential idea to remember is that most duck layers are not as productive as chicken layers.

The Campbell, or also known as the Khaki Campbell, is the best duck breed for egg production, this originated from England. This breed is widely known as a standard duck breed about fifty years ago. This breed is probably the only breed that can equal or even surpass the rate of chicken layer. A regular Campbell can lay about 230 eggs in just 52 weeks, but a hybrid of this breed, called the Golden 300, can lay as much as 290 eggs within 52 weeks.

The Runner Duck Breed is also popular among duck farmers who are raising ducks for eggs. They are also good for meat production because their body is lean and strong, but this breed is more known for providing quality eggs.

For Meat Production

People who are keeping ducks for meat needs a different type of duck breeds than those who are for the eggs, Meat duck breeds are larger and lay fewer eggs, allowing more energy to be placed in building a bigger body frame. Meat ducks can get very large, but generally are bad egg layers.

The Rouen duck is very similar to the Mallard duck, with a green head and plumage. Thus, they are also great for ornamental purposes. They grow quickly and keep quite a mass of meat on their body frame, making them very suitable for meat production.

The Peking breed is probably the best duck breed for meat production. They grow quickly and have a large body frame.

These breed of ducks are just some of the duck breeds you can choose from. If you are raising ducks for ornamental purposes, you can choose Muscovy, Buff duck, Call, Crested, and the Mallard duck. They are great when kept in the yard, especially when you have a pond where they can glide through.

The most important thing to consider before choosing a breed to raise duck is your enthusiasm. You can’t keep your ducks, their eggs, their meat, or their aesthetic properties if you will not devote at least part of your time, money and effort in rearing these breeds. You need to ensure that you can give them proper shelter, food, water and environment.

Raising Ducks: Feeding & Behavior

Ducks are not very picky when it comes to their food; they just usually exploit the different food sources they can find around them, such as weeds, small aquatic plants, fishes, insects, slugs, and even snails.

Some breeds of ducks such as the smew, goosander and the ganders, are well-adapted to hunt and eat large fish.

Most ducks have the feature of a wide, flat bill that helps them in scouring for food, pulling plants, catching worms and small snails from the ground, hunting for small insects and other jobs such as grooming and defending themselves from predators.

Diving ducks and sea ducks hunt deep underwater. To submerge easily, the diving ducks are built heavier than the dabbling ducks, and they also have more difficulty in flying.

Dabbling ducks on the other hand feed on the surface of the water or on the shore, or as deep as they can submerge their bodies. On the side of the bill, there is a specialized structure, resembling a comb with fine bristles, used to strain the water spurting from the side of the bill and traps the food. This is called the pectin, which is also used to clean the feathers.

Ducks are basically monogamous, even though these bonds generally last for a specific period only such as a year or a season. Larger breeds and the more docile breeds are inclined to have a single partner for a longer time. Most breeds copulate at least once a year, during a certain favorable situations depending on the region they live.

Despite the popular notion, only the female ducks of most dabbling varieties “quack”. For instance, the scaup, a diving duck, makes a noise that makes a sound like “scaup” (thus the origin of the name), and even among the dabblers, the males do not quack. Generally, ducks make a wide range of sounds or calls varying from whistles, and grunts. These sounds, also known as calls, may be loud displaying calls or subtle communication during the mating season.

Ducks have a broad-based distribution, occurring across most of the regions of the world, except in arid regions like Antarctica, and in most deserts. Most species can thrive in sub-Antarctic areas such as South Georgia and the Aucklands. Most ducks have also thrived to inhabit on oceanic islands such as New Zealand and the Hawaiian Islands, even though most of these species are endangered or have been declared as extinct.

A few duck species, primarily those breeding in the moderate climate regions are very migratory; those in the tropics are not. Some ducks, especially in Australia and New Zealand are nomadic because of the rainy season.

Ducks have different predators to look out for. Ducklings are very vulnerable since they cannot fly or run fast and they are basically food for large birds and large fishes such as pikes, and other aquatic predators such as crocodiles. The coop can be raided by land predators, and brooding ducks may be trapped on the nest by foxes, or predatory birds such as eagles and hawks.

Mature ducks can fly, but can be trapped on the water by large predators such as large fishes. In flight, ducks are safe from a few predators except from humans and hawks.

Raising Call Ducks

The call duck is a lively and dynamic duck breed. It is small and could weigh at maturity to about 1.7 kg (1.8 lb) with a flabby bowl-like body. It is easily distinguishable from other breeds because of its wide, curved head, small, broad bill and stunted legs. It has a loud quack, and the females are more high-pitched than males. This breed comes in various colors such as blue, pale, gray, white, khaki, brown, caramel, and spotted. Thus, you should not lean on feather colors when you want to spot a call duck. A call duck can lay at least 30-80 eggs every year’

The call duck originated from Europe as a domestic breed related to the Mallard. It was first recognized as a duck breed in the 17th century. Although this breed is used for ornamental and domestic purposes, some raisers keep call ducks because they have large eggs.

To keep call ducks, you should first set-up a duck pen. This pen should have at least four square feet of space for each duck placed in the pen to ensure comfort and safety. If you live in a warm region, an open pen with a sturdy fence is enough. Duck raisers keeping call ducks in arctic regions should build or purchase a duck coop, which is enclosed and properly insulated to give a comfortable shade to the ducks during the cold season.

If you need to purchase Call ducks, you may buy ducklings or adult ducks that can produce eggs. Both of these can be acquired from any farm supply store. If you know someone who raises Call ducks, it is better to buy from them, since you can get them cheaper and they are properly raised in farms than in cages in a supply store. Also, Call ducks can be purchased from any hatchery. You can check any hatchery near your area. Normally, the price for Call ducks range from $3 to $4, depending on size and number.

If you have decided to raise Call ducklings, you can first start to brood them. If you started with mature Call ducks, there’s no need to brood them anymore. Ducklings need warmth to keep them healthy and to imitate the heat from the mother duck. You can hang a 250-watt light bulb and adjust its height until the coop is 95 degrees Fahrenheit in temperature. Lower the temperature weekly by at least five degrees until the ducks have grown and the bulb is not needed anymore.

Make sure to provide your flock with enough water supply. A duck water dish or a low sink is enoughyou’re your ducklings. You should place pebbles or marbles at the bottom of the sink to draw the ducklings and motivate them to drink. Juvenile or mature Call ducks should be a basin with a medium-level of water, enough for their heads to be submerged.

And for some additional nutritional feeding reminders; Call ducks should be given duck feeds free from medications intended for chicken. The duck feed should have at least 25% protein ingredient. Give the starter feeds to your ducklings in the first month before replacing with a duck grower feed with at least 15% protein mixture.

Once they grow into mature ducks, they will also hunt for small bugs and tiny grass and weeds in the pen or yard. You can also give them fresh vegetable chops composed of vegetable stalks and fruits.

Feeding Little Ducklings

When a duckling is at the stage where they would now be living under a brooder or a hen, you should ensure that they have quick access to food and clean drinking water, to do this, you will need special feeders and a water basin. Keep the containers clean, also make it a daily habit to clean and replenish their food and water dishes. You should find these items with a special design to avoid the ducklings from toppling over. If this happens, your ducklings can drown inside the basin as they are not yet accustomed to swimming.

Adult ducks use special oils when they swim in water. However, they can only do this skill when they are already about six months old. This special oil can be transmitted to the duckling from their mother, thus, if they are being brooded, they don’t have the means of getting this oil. Their feathers can easily get wet, and they can die because of pneumonia. Water containers with wire guards are also a great choice. Place the water containers over low, wire-guarded frames to keep them from getting inside. Also, this can decrease the mess they would make. Make sure to change the water containers with the suitable size as the ducklings grow.

In some farms, commercial producers have food pellets especially formulated for baby ducks. You should check with a supplier in your area for this. If the duck pellets are not available, serve your baby ducks with some chick starter first for at least 2 – 3 weeks. Place the food on egg container flats or any other dish with coarse materials: smooth surfaced materials can cause leg injury, as baby ducks are very active and they can always slip on the material when the surface is wet. After the starting period, you can give them duck pellets or chicken grower. You can also mix cracked corn and chopped vegetables. Always have food available to your ducks and give them grits as they grow.

Basically, ducks are easy to grow because they are durable and are not vulnerable to most typical bird diseases. The use of drug-enervated duck pellets is not necessary to boost their immune system. Very rare are additives that have been permitted for nutritional or medical purposes in duck pellets. Waterfowls such as ducks can be more sensitive to medications than other poultry. Improper use of specific medicated pellets designed for chickens can cause harm to ducks.

Most breed of ducks that are raised in the late spring and have access to green weeds in your yard basically are healthier. Although ducks are not as good foragers as geese are, they can eat some vegetables you may give and also, farm ducks are commonly permitted to roam the yard where they can find food. You can chop green feeds and give them to your ducks when they should be inside when there is a bad weather. Contrary to common beliefs, a water pond is not very important to raise ducks successfully.

Under marketing factors, Peking ducklings can be sold in the market when they reach 7 weeks. They can weigh 6-8 pound and have eaten 25-30 pounds of feeds. Rouen ducks kept under farm conditions can take at least 5 months to keep up with Peking duck weight. Muscovy ducks take rather longer.